So, to finish my rant ...
I started this trek at Luckla Airport, an amazing, uphill, short runway built into the side of a mountain, ending in a stone wall. Landing in the Dornier STOL plane was quite an experience - they also fly Twin Otters which seem to do it much more easily.
The airport was built by Hillary and his group to facilitate bringing in construction materials for the many schools and clinics he and his organizations have built in the region. He is on record as saying he regrets building it now, since it has flooded the region with people.
I trekked first to the Goyko Lakes ... which were absolutly wonderful, joining up with two other trekkers - Ricardo from Chile, and Gen from Britain. From there we did a day trip to "Frosbitten Fingers" about 5600metres for our first good views of Everest. An amazing place .. we felt like we were on top of the world!
We then went over the Cho La pass ... challenging to say the least - I wouldn't reccomend it without a guide or others who have done it. Fortuantly, Gen had a porter who knew it well, and we joined some Americans who were also going over. We then joined the Everest trail ( or the motorway as we called it) up to Gorek Shep (the last accomodation before the Everest Base Camp at the foot of the Khumbu Ice Fall) It's not that the trail is any easier, or less scenic, just a lot busier. The Everest trek attracts a lot more people. Some times we would meet herds of trekkers, often of one nationality, all decked out in fancy gear with guides and porters carrying their stuff. The coca-cola route ... or trekking in the bubble as we came to call it.
Which brings me to the second part of my rant.
It seems most westerners ... and increasingly others now (Japanese and Korean especially) have more money than time. They book their treks from home, believe all the stuff they are told about needing Guides and porters, and get all inclusive package deals, buying the latest oh so stylish gear in their own country.
The problem with this, aside from the fact that they pay five or six times what they need to, is that most of the money goes to the travel and trekking companies, and very little to the people of the region. If you do just a little research you can do it on your own, and have a much richer experience.
It's far better to get yourself to Nepal, buy a trekking guide book, maps and gear in Kathmandu, (gear is extremely cheap, and often locally made), get a bus or plane to the trail head and set off. If you want a porter to carry your stuff, you can hire locally and directly, pay a fair wage (under $10.00 a day) - which goes direct to your porter. You also get a chance to meet your porter before you set out, so can choose someone you can get along with well ... they are amazing men (and a few women)
For the main trekking routes ... Annapurna and Everest Base Camp a guide is really not necessary, but if u really want one, or plan on heading off the main route, again you can hire locally, and the money stays where it belongs. On these main routes there are plenty of tea houses, where you can get great trekking food and a bed for the night. They will all supply blankets if you need them, so you don't even need a sleeping bag .. although I'd reccomend a light one. I spent about $15.00 CDN a day on the Annapurna trek, and $20.00 CDN on the Goyko Everest Trek for three good meals and accomodation. Pretty fair when you think that everthing has to be brought in by mule, yak or porter for up to 10 days walking!
A nice guy called Milke gave me trekking poles after the Annapurna trek - I used them on the next trek and am a convert .... so much easier on the knees and gives your upper body a workout.
I was very lucky to go in a fairly low season .. now that some of the troubles in Nepal are settling down, expect a huge influx of trekkers.
Lastly I like to say a few words of appreciation to the people in the mountains - some of the friendliest, happiest most accomodation people I've ever met. Nest time I hope to try some trekking more off the beaten track. The scenery was magnificent, but it's the people I'll remember the most fondly.
The airport was built by Hillary and his group to facilitate bringing in construction materials for the many schools and clinics he and his organizations have built in the region. He is on record as saying he regrets building it now, since it has flooded the region with people.
I trekked first to the Goyko Lakes ... which were absolutly wonderful, joining up with two other trekkers - Ricardo from Chile, and Gen from Britain. From there we did a day trip to "Frosbitten Fingers" about 5600metres for our first good views of Everest. An amazing place .. we felt like we were on top of the world!
We then went over the Cho La pass ... challenging to say the least - I wouldn't reccomend it without a guide or others who have done it. Fortuantly, Gen had a porter who knew it well, and we joined some Americans who were also going over. We then joined the Everest trail ( or the motorway as we called it) up to Gorek Shep (the last accomodation before the Everest Base Camp at the foot of the Khumbu Ice Fall) It's not that the trail is any easier, or less scenic, just a lot busier. The Everest trek attracts a lot more people. Some times we would meet herds of trekkers, often of one nationality, all decked out in fancy gear with guides and porters carrying their stuff. The coca-cola route ... or trekking in the bubble as we came to call it.
Which brings me to the second part of my rant.
It seems most westerners ... and increasingly others now (Japanese and Korean especially) have more money than time. They book their treks from home, believe all the stuff they are told about needing Guides and porters, and get all inclusive package deals, buying the latest oh so stylish gear in their own country.
The problem with this, aside from the fact that they pay five or six times what they need to, is that most of the money goes to the travel and trekking companies, and very little to the people of the region. If you do just a little research you can do it on your own, and have a much richer experience.
It's far better to get yourself to Nepal, buy a trekking guide book, maps and gear in Kathmandu, (gear is extremely cheap, and often locally made), get a bus or plane to the trail head and set off. If you want a porter to carry your stuff, you can hire locally and directly, pay a fair wage (under $10.00 a day) - which goes direct to your porter. You also get a chance to meet your porter before you set out, so can choose someone you can get along with well ... they are amazing men (and a few women)
For the main trekking routes ... Annapurna and Everest Base Camp a guide is really not necessary, but if u really want one, or plan on heading off the main route, again you can hire locally, and the money stays where it belongs. On these main routes there are plenty of tea houses, where you can get great trekking food and a bed for the night. They will all supply blankets if you need them, so you don't even need a sleeping bag .. although I'd reccomend a light one. I spent about $15.00 CDN a day on the Annapurna trek, and $20.00 CDN on the Goyko Everest Trek for three good meals and accomodation. Pretty fair when you think that everthing has to be brought in by mule, yak or porter for up to 10 days walking!
A nice guy called Milke gave me trekking poles after the Annapurna trek - I used them on the next trek and am a convert .... so much easier on the knees and gives your upper body a workout.
I was very lucky to go in a fairly low season .. now that some of the troubles in Nepal are settling down, expect a huge influx of trekkers.
Lastly I like to say a few words of appreciation to the people in the mountains - some of the friendliest, happiest most accomodation people I've ever met. Nest time I hope to try some trekking more off the beaten track. The scenery was magnificent, but it's the people I'll remember the most fondly.
posted by Andrew Smith at 10:31 PM
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