Monday, October 30, 2006

Mountain Railway

I took a narrow gauge Mountain Railway from Jogindernagar to Kangra ... less than 100 kms - over 4 hrs!! but amazing views and a slice of local life!
















The Seats were a bit hard .... Our driver is happy to pose for a picture!


Jogindernagar Station ...

Sunday, October 29, 2006

Trip to Manali and Rotang Pass

Sonam Guesthouse in Visisht - a very funky but good place to stay!














On the way up to Rotang Pass, there are many stores renting out warm clothes to Indian Tourists on their way up to experience snow for the first time

Half way up is a rest stop with lots of restaurnats and tea shops ...


The road is spectacular ....

and narrow ....

A bit scary in places ...

But at the top (4,300 metres) it's a winter playground ... Yak rides, snowmobile rides, skiing "lessons"
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Manikaran Hotsprings

The bus to Manikaran Hotsprings .... my first ride on the roof! Way more comfortable! Sikh Temple at Manikaran Hot Springs ... contains public baths and a hostel - 3 nights free accomodation and meals for pilgrims!
The water emerges boiling! Food is put in bags (rice etc.) and thrown in to cook!
These two Sikh gentleman insisted on me taking their picture!
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Thursday, October 19, 2006

Halfway to Heaven ..


Well back safe and sound from my first trek in the Himalaya ... wow ...

I left Tuesday morning .. expecting to join a group .. but as is so often the case in India .. things were not as expected, and I was the only one going .. with not one .. but two guides .. Mr Deep ... an ex-army guy about 45 and his young sidekick Daschen .. great guys as it turned out, although communication was limited since they spoke only Hindi and Bahari.

We headed out from McLeod Ganj to the first stop, Gallu temple, picked up a sleeping bag and tent for me and continued up the mountain to Triund, which is on a ridge about 1000 metres above McLeod Ganj. By the time we got there it was quite foggy in cloud, then, miraculously, it cleared and I was blown away by the sight of the Himalaya Massif, snow covered, rising behind us. A picture seemed in order, but when switched the camera on nothing happened - I'd left the battery, which I had diligently left in it's charger in my apartment!

Ahh well ...

I stole the pics from the net ... The first one is of Triund, the second of Indahara Pass taken from Snowline.

We continued on to Snowline another 4 km (3hrs trek) where we made camp. There were two young hash smoking Czech guys camped there along with a stone and tarp shelter selling tea, food and just abt anything else you could imagine! Mr Deep started to make dinner on an ancient gas stove that, he and Daschen had carried in one of the two huge canvas bags they had carried up ... I was even more amazed when a bag of flour, a rolling pin, board and cast iron grill emerged from the bag and young Daschen was instructed to start making chapati's while Mr Deep made chai, then cooked soup, rice, dal and vegetables. I was fed (delicious - I was starving) while they watched, me making appreciative sounds, refusing to eat until I had finished - very weird feeling.



Mr Deep and Daschen slept in the shelter with the stores keeper, and I got the tent - a small one person Indian version of a Canadian Tire 29.95 special.

The stars were amazing - the milky way was the brightest I think I've seen it!

It was a bit of a chilly night, my altimeter watch said -5 and 3150 metres (10, 320 ft), and I was up at first light to drink a most welcme cup of hot chai followed by a porridge breakfast.

Mr Deep and I headed out about 7:30 for the pass. By 10:30 we had made it to 3800 metres (12460ft). The view was magnificent, but I was bushed. Every few steps I had to stop to catch my breath ... and clounds were starting to gather, so we headed down making it back to Snowline just after noon, in the middle of a hailstorm. Good thing we got off the mountain when we did!

We decided to break camp and head down to Triund where we could spend a warmer night, arriving there about 4:00 pm The weather lifted by evening, as it often seems to here, and I had a good night and unevenful trip down to McLeod and a welcome shower.

It seems my timing was good, we had a terrific thunderstorm last night and today it's pouring. (good time to catch up on internet!)

Last night was fun however - Roger and Sue, an English couple who are in my building, have their son, and two of his friends visiting. They are all musicians, and put on a great show at Capre Diem - a place that has become a bit of a travellers hangout. Halfway through the evening we lost power (happens a lot here) and out came the candles adding to the ambience of the evening.

Tonight I'm heading over to Manali for a few days - only aboput 40 miles as the crow flies, but an overnight bus trip from here. Sounds like an interesting spot.

Saturday, October 14, 2006

Trip to Hotsprings ...

On Sunday I went to some hotsprings for the day with a german guy called Simon and a guide, Vickram.

First of course we had to eat ... amazing parethra .. potatoe filled nan brad cooked in a portable tandoori, with raita and chickpeas .. delicious .. all you can eat for 14 rupees ... (40 cents) ....























First there was a trek for about 20 minutes through the jungle ... and a river to cross ...























then we came to the springs, situated in a small Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva ... after our guide had made the appropriate offerings at the shrine we bathed in the pool











































...and had a little picnic prepared by Vickram under the shade of the Bodhi tree ..

A great day!!

Friday, October 13, 2006

Some Local pictures Finally




















Street Scene - Wildly decorated trucks ...






















Long walk up to the waterfall .....

But always a tea-shop nearby ...





















View from apartment Balcony

Monkeys everywhere!

Tuesday, October 10, 2006


Yesterday was a bit grey - one of those slow days ... most businesses are closed here Monday and by 4:00 was pouring.

Undeterred, I decided to head out about 5:00 ... bought an umbrella for 60 rupees ($1.50) and went in search of the heart of Monday night. (Flicr photo) I stopped for Chai first (when in doubt drink Chai!) and headed for a hole in the wall place called the Sunrise cafe - which led to great conversations with some Korean girls, two Indian guys and a french man, including advice to go to Khana Nirvana Community Cafe on Temple Road for an open stage later on.

Then it was off to an Indian Restaurant that I've become fond of that serves a great veggie Thali - where I ended up in conversation with four monks. One of them, Thupten who had escaped to India from Tibet three years ago, suggested we go together to the Norbulinka Insitute tomorrow ... so I agreed to meet him in the square at 10:00 the next day ...

Full of Indian food i headed off to Khana Nirvana .. got the last seat in the place, right at the front, and started chatting wioth Sean and his Dad, Duke, seated next to me ... from Portage la Prairie! The evening was fantastic .. Traditional Tibetan music, Indian music, blues, Isreali songs ... and a more international and enjoyable evening would be hard to imagine!

So today it was off to the Norbulinka Instituteabout an hour away from McLeod Ganj on two busses. The Institute was set up by the Dalai Lama to help preserve Tibets artistic and cultural heritage. An amazing place - all kinds of workshops doing everything from Thanka paintings, sculpture, wood carving to weaving and doll making. After that it was off on another short bus ride to Gyuto Tantric University and it's large temple, the home of the Karmapa
The temple was closed, but Thupten found a yooung monk with the keys who let us in.

Then it was back to Dharmasala for a spot of lunch, a little shopping for domestic items for the apartment and home for a nap!

I finally got some pictures off my camera ... so I'll put them up tomorrow.

Thursday, October 05, 2006

Settling in ...

I moved into my new apartment yesterday ... decided to splurge and took one of the sunny suites with a nice view of the mountains - took it for a month at 250 rupees a day ... ($6.25 CDN) including power and cooking gas. There's an older American Lady above me who is going with me to shop tomorrow for a few domestic things - she's been coming here for 17 years so can give me the low down. There's pics of the place here http://easthomeinfo.com/

I went to the movies yesterday ... saw the Constant Gardener. There quite a few movie places here ... rooms with up to 25 seats, that show DVD's (probably pirated!) projected onto a screen for about a $1.00 a shot.

I've made an appointment for Sunday for a Tibetan Massage and Health/Yoga assessment .. should be interesting!

My cell phone is now hooked up with an Indian # It's 9816838248 I think the country code for India is 91 India is a bit like Newfoundland, 30 mins out of step with the rest of us. I think the time difference is 12 1/2 hrs

So as you can see .. I'm settling in. The weather is great so far ... warm days up to 20/25 and cooler nights 15 or so. I've been warned that it get's pretty cold by December, so we will see how things go. Sure is a relief after sweatiung it out in Delhi.

So that's all for now, Heading up the hill now to set up an appointment with one of the Teachers at Tushita Meditation Centre and then maybe some lunch.

Monday, October 02, 2006

Whew!! Ahhhhhhhh! Dharamsala ....

A day late, I finally arrived, actually in MacLeod Ganj, the Tibetan town just above Dharamsala - but not without incident.

The "super-deluxe" "Volvo" A/c bus turned out to have quite a few tough miles on it.
But off we went at 8:30 ... only half an hour late. The latest Bollywood Blockbuster Movie blared out of the speakers, the air conditioner blasted away. The bus was only a third full - but half of the passengers wanted it that way, the other half wanted it off and there only seemed to be two settings. So off and on it went ... all night.

About 2:00 am we started backing out of a toll booth on the "Motorway" why ... I don't know. By the time I saw us go around the same roundabout three times I realized we were lost ... we went all over ... backing out of dead ends twice, until we found ourselves back on the main route. I finally fell asleep (the seats wern't too bad actually) only to be woken at 3:45 by a loud bang under my seat. A tire had blown. The inner of the drivers side dual wheel at the back.

He and the conductor went out and started trying to jack the vehicle up ... with a tiny hydraulic jack - except they didn't have a flashlight. I did, and held the flashlight for the hour or so it took to change the tire - an amazing operation really - it had obviously happened before.

As dawn came up, we arrived int the foothills of the Himalaya ... stunning. At times we had to back up for other vehicles to pass, the sheer drops a bit unerving .. and finally made it to Dharmasala. The taxi driver had never heard of the "Tara Guesthouse" I was looking for ... I was told by a nice Tibetan guy at the Tara cafe I was taken to that it has been converted to a nunnery ... but he helped my find another - "The Mountain View" - just perfect - fairly central, friendly and a perfect base until I can find my way around and rnet a room long term.

The setting of MacLeod Ganj is just spectacular. It's a bit touristed with backpackers, but has everything one might need. Here's a couple of pics from the net until I figure how to get my own ones up.